Pipe Bombs
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The information in this section is provided for educational purposes only. If you use this information and cause harm/damage, it is YOUR fault -- not the fault of those who have contributed to this section.
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Pipe Bombs
One thing that any bomber should have learned from The Unabomber's (Ted Kaczynski) bombs is, add some shrapnel. Place nails or other sharp objects to the outer wall of the bomb or put it in the pipe along the walls. This severly increase the damage you do while using this bomb.
Pipe bombs are true wartime devices and their blast and shrapnel can cause very cruel and debilitating injuries to humans. Pipes can be used to contain fast self combusting chemicals until they reach a useful pressure for material destruction that unconfined in a pipe would have just burned quickly.
Preparation
Always prepare the pipe in advance and fill the explosive/powder into a sealed plastic bag along with the blasting cap/detonator, if you are just using a fuse or electrical igniter this should be sealed into the bag with the blasting powder. The threads of a pipe create enough friction to ignite some powders causing premature detonation. Load the bag into a pipe with the drilled cap already screwed on feed the fuse/wire through and follow with a wad of tissue paper or more plastic. wipe the inner and outer threads of the pipe with a damp washcloth and screw on.
Electronic timers
A properly low voltage switch gate silicon controller rectifier or thyristor will take the low voltage from a kitchen timer speaker line or cell phone vibrator or ringer and switch on a larger usable power supply from a battery or AC power, if the audio circut is so low that it won't flip the SCR gate add an amplifier transistor. This is perfect for setting off timed tear gas during an event, or a phone or pager controlled smoke bombs to cover a retreat.
Altitude Switch
An altitude switch can easily be made with a can, tape, a plastic bag, wire, and two strips of metal. Securely tape and seal the plastic bag into the can with half of the air pushed out. Place one strip as a bridge ofer the top of the can, the other strip like a lever that the expanding bag can push across to touch the bridge strip. When the altitude gets high enough (a few thousand feet) the circut will close and current can flow. A fun thing to do is put this onto a logging truck heading into the mountains that will ignite a string of firecrackers.
Bean Timer
The expansion of dry beans in water can also be used as a timer, you need a clean unpainted metal disk like a can lid, two shiny nails and a straight walled plastic container. As the seeds or beans expand the metal disk will be pushed up against the nails which completes the circut. Seal the container with tape unless air transport is expected.
Testing
All timers must be tested with the operational battery and a buzzer, or lightbulb in place of its igniter/blasting cap several times. Always test the circut to be sure that it is off before connecting the electricly activating the timer. A double activation circut if there is room doubles the chance of success.
see [[1]] for more military tested improvised devices.
Evidence
If building subversive devices eliminate the evidence, have friends buy generic new sealed pup tent, a large sealed tarp, a nylon stocking, sealed plastic or rubber gloves, hooded tyvek painting suit, and new sealed rubber boots. First take a good shower and scrub good with a washcloth everywhere eliminiting dead skin, get out and let yourself air dry put on a hair net. Put on a set of gloves and pull the stocking over your face. have a friend blast you off with an air hose. Put on your tyvek suit, nobody may touch any of the sealed suit boots or gloves witout wearing rubber gloves. Have a gloved friend put your boots and gloves on to you and duct tape the joints of the boots and gloves, you will look like a haz-mat guy once you duct tape the boots and gloves onto your suit. Again air blast off away from the tent and other devices. The suited person now rolls out the tarp and once the clean tarp is out places the boot package onto the tarp and dons and tapes the boots to his suit, next he opens his tent and assembles it. All device assembly takes plce in the tent. Sealed ingredients and parts are opened by suited and gloved people only inside the tent. Trash sack all completed devices and place in a padded box. All remnants that can be burned should be if possible in a way that the black smoke will not alert the fire department. Remember you are trying very hard to keep the DNA and fingerprints off of your device. Fingerprints remain in gloves, hair and skin flakes remain in all of these items of clothing saliva might remain on the stocking. A study of crime lab technique will help in developing evidence-sterile technique but remember that contaminated evidence is not a problem to the police who will rule out investigator prints and DNA. Bleach, lye, and caustic oven cleaner can help destroy DNA but do not rely on denaturing the evidence, don't leave any in the first place.
Original PIPE BOMBS
Perhaps the most widely used homemade concussion bombs are those made out of pipe. Perfected by George Metesky, the renown New York Mad Bomber, they are deadly, safe, easy to assemble, and small enough to transport in your pocket. You want a standard steel pipe (two inches in diameter is a good size) that is threaded on both ends so you can cap it. The length you use depends on how big an explosion is desired. Sizes between 3-10 inches in length have been successfully employed. Make sure both caps screw on tightly before you insert the powder. The basic idea to remember is that a bomb is simply a hot fire burning very rapidly in a tightly confined space. The rapidly expanding gases burst against the walls of the bomb. If they are trapped in a tightly sealed iron pipe, when they finally break out, they do so with incredible force. If the bomb itself is placed in a somewhat enclosed area like a ventilation shaft, doorway or alleyway, it will in turn convert this larger area into a "bomb" and increase the over-all explosion immensely.
When you have the right pipe and both caps selected, drill a hole in the side of the pipe (before powder is inserted) big enough to pull the fuse through. If you are using a firecracker fuse, insert the firecracker, pull the fuse through and epoxy it into place securely.
If you are using long fusing either with a detonator (difficult to come by) timing device or a simple cancerette fuse, drill two holes and run two lines of fuse into the pipe. When you have the fuse rigged to the pipe, you are ready to add the powder. Cape one end snugly, making sure you haven't trapped any grains of powder in the threads. Wipe the device with rubbing alcohol and you're ready to blast off.
A good innovation is to grind down one half of the pipe before you insert the powder. This makes the walls of one end thinner than the walls of the other end. When you place the bomb, the explosion, following the line of least resistance, will head in that direction. You can do this with ordinary grinding tools available in any hardware or machine shop. Be sure not to have the powder around when you are grinding the pipe, since sparks are produced. Woodstock Nation contains instructions for more pipe bombs and a neat timing device (see pages 115-117).
