Weapons for Street Fighting

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Contents 1 Weapons for Street Fighting 1.1 Paint 1.2 Paintball Guns 1.3 Potato Guns 1.3.1 Coleman Flint Install 1.3.2 Piezo-Electric Install 1.3.3 Camera flash ignition 1.3.4 Firing 1.3.5 Alternate Ammunition 1.3.6 Alternate Propellant 1.3.7 Air Powered 1.3.8 Dry Ice 1.4 Baby Spud/Ball Gun 1.5 Anti-tire Burrs 1.6 Track Team 1.7 Abrasive Personality 1.8 Pigs on Horses 1.9 Bike Locks for Pig Bikes 1.10 Helicopters 1.11 Rolling Road Block 1.12 Fuel Adulteration 1.13 Improvised Street Weapons 1.14 Clubs 1.15 Flamethrower 1.16 Whips 1.17 Tematlatl 1.18 Maquahuitl 1.19 Pepper Spray Blaster 1.20 Considerations 1.21 Links 2 Original WEAPONS FOR STREET FIGHTING 2.1 Spray Cans 2.2 The Slingshot 2.3 Slings 2.4 Boomerangs 2.5 Flash Guns 2.6 Tear Gas and Mace 2.7 Anti-Tire Weapons 2.8 Authentic Pig Game

Weapons for Street Fighting

Note: while all of these methods can be used as weapons for street fighting, keep in mind that their use will drastically increase your chance of the police using lethal force against you. Consider the use of such weapons very carefully.

Paint

Paint applied on a pig's facemask will mean he has to take it off, but if it gets in his eyes he is going to the hospital. But once he has his facemask off, it's a fair fight, so try not to make him blind in the process. It is easy to find non-toxic paints mix 50% with water and use a squirt bottle to project it, brown will really have a psychological effect.

Pink dye which doesn't wash out of skin will have a major psychological effect on homophobic cops especially if used exclusively to mark the most abusive skull cracker pigs, wear gloves to keep the evidence off of you.

Paintball Guns

These weapons function very well for covering a pig's helmet, riot vehicle windshield, or camera lenses at a distance. With upwards of 250-320 pounds of pressure behind each paintball, these guns can do serious damage at close range. At a longer range, the best targets are groin, head (if you don't have any other choice), and occasionally torso; the legs and arms are too small of targets.

For less than lethal response a good marker gun with a hopper full of frozen paintballs (stick them in the freezer overnight) becomes a .68 caliber pain weapon. Avoid aim at the temples and neck this has a small chance of killing a person, hits to the eyes could blind a cop, frozen ammo or not. At close range, a few frozen paintballs to the lower extremities will disable a person (although, as mentioned before, it's not very practical to aim for such a small target at medium to long range.) Keep in mind, a paintball marker with a hopper of frozen paintballs is a potentially lethal weapon, so you should expect the pigs to treat it as such if you get busted (that is, if they don't just open fire with their real guns.) You should treat it with the same respect you'd treat any firearm.

If you see riot cops loading paintball guns it might be for marking protesters (beware they may use long lasting indelible dye or UV invisible dye) but it is likely police special hard plastic or rubber anti-citizen rounds which are classed as less than lethal. These rounds heavier and harder than the previous frozen rounds are sprayed into the crowd to cause a retreat. Expect large numbers to be fired to disperse an unruly demonstration. They do serious damage up close, so avoid letting the pigs shoot you. You can also find the cops using paintballs filled with a pepper-spray like mixture that they can fire into a crowd with chilling results. Consider loading your marker up with fitting bouncy balls and shooting back. Even when they use their "less than lethal" paint balls they probably won't accept your paintball gun as being nonlethal, that would be playing fair, as always expect the pigs to overreact.

Potato Guns

The pigs use a grenade launcher to brutalize activists up from a distance. If these heavy rubber baton shells hit you in the head or abdomen it's going to do some serious damage (potentially death.)

We have our own launcher that can be introduced into the fight and only costs a little money. We warn you that the appearance of a bazooka-like weapon will likely turn any demonstration into a police massacre and they will liberally use deadly force if they see or hear the spud gun introduced into a riot situation.

Popping a few of these at a squad car or a group of armored riot troops may be useful to slow down a police charge and cover a retreat.

A spud gun is usually made from what (in Amerika) is called Schedule 40 or Schedule 80 PVC drain pipe. DO NOT use pipe marked "DWV" or Drain/Waste/Vent. This material has much thinner walls than the other types, and can explode in your hands when fired!

Materials:

• 1-2 feet of 4 inch PVC (40 or 80 schedule) pipe
• 2-4 feet of 2 inch PVC (40 or 80 schedule) pipe
• 4 inch threaded cleanout
• threaded plug for 4 inch cleanout
• 3 to 2 inch adapter
• 4 to 3 inch adapter
• PVC cement
• electrical or flint igniter
• ram-rod
• combustible spray (Aqua-Net aerosol hairspray works good)

Assemble and cement in this order 2 inch pipe -> 2 to 3 inch adapter -> 3 to 4 inch adapter -> 4 inch pipe -> 4 inch threaded cleanout. Do not cement the threaded plug into the cleanout! Your spudgun now looks like a bazooka but needs a ignition system to light the spray fumes. There are two easy options a Coleman lantern flint lighter which could be bought in camping stores or the gas grill piezo-electric igniter. Placing the igniter as close to the front of the 4 inch pipe combustion chamber makes it less likely to foul from repeated spraying of hairspray. At the place where the barrel meets the adapters a long screw or two will prevent a spud from going too far and falling into the combustion chamber. Sharpening the front of the pipe will let you easily cut your spuds right from the sack as you are loading.

Coleman Flint Install

Drill a hole a little smaller than the threads on the igniter, you will not need the nut included just thread into the drilled hole. You might put a little plastic or aluminum can shield to prevent gunk from hitting the striker and getting it wet.

Piezo-Electric Install

Drill 2 small pilot holes 2-3cm apart and put long wood screws into the holes angled that the tips are about .75cm apart. Attach wires to these screws and connect to the piezo igniter, don't forget to insulate with tape to prevent shorts and misfires. Secure the wires and cover with tape to prevent snags, The igniter can be put into a bazooka handle like a trigger.

Camera flash ignition

This is probably the most complex, but reliable and high-powered ignition device that you will find used on potato cannons.

you will need:

• single use camera (should have a switch to charge the flash)
• solder/soldering iron
• light switch
• insulated wire

Install screws the same way as with a piezo-electric sparker, but make the gap about 1/16 of an inch(really small). Cut three lengths of wire and strip the ends. take apart the camera, you should be able to pop it open, since they are reused. The ends of two wires to the two contacts of the capacitor (the thing that looks like a battery inside your camera). Run these wires out of your camera's casing and reassemble it. You should have a camera with two wires sticking out of it, attach one wire to one ed of the light switch, run the other to one of your spark-gap screws. take the remaining length of wire and attach one end to the switch, and the other to the spark gap. your results should be:

....(camera)

.....|..........|

(switch)....|

.....|..........|

(screw1) (screw2)

To operate, first you turn off the light switch. Next you activate the switch to charge the camera flash. Give the camera a few (5-10)seconds to charge(more is only better). When ready to fire you flip the light switch. You should hear a LOUD pop as a very bright, although short spark passes in between your spark-gap screws. Although the spark covers a short distance, it has a considerably greater current than a piezo, and therefore can be much hotter, in fact, it usually can melt your screws, and will throw sparks in all directions, these sparks are tiny pieces of molten iron. If this does not light your fuel, you probably have a bad fuel to air mixture and the fuel will not burn anyway.

Firing

Ram a potato down the barrel, prepping the barrel with nonstick cooking spray or oil makes this easier especially the first time. Spray your fuel for 1-4 sec into a open end, and screw shut. Fire the igniter and BOOM!! Practice firing and spraying but always expect misfires about 1 in 3 shots.

Canned hairspray is good fuel as it is high in alcohol and uses propane as a propellant you can try others but gasoline or ether/starting fluid don't increase your power just the fire danger and damage to your launcher. Hot wax or other lubricant is good on the cap threads before firing for the first time as the spray residue can stick it shut, don't tighten past easy hand tightness.

Alternate Ammunition

A plastic shopping sack is a good wad for putting just about anything into your spud gun. A golf ball or small stone works good for a projectile, just be sure not to put something too heavy as it won't get much speed and land near you. Your spud gun can make a useful mortar to lob your own tear gas shells into a pig assembly area or to disburse WTO deligates from a distance.

Alternate Propellant

If you can get your hands on any of the following and an effective way to control their firing you can make the spud gun much more reliable to fire.

Rifle blanks have enough powder to launch a potato with great force and excellent reliability if installed right. A length of steel pipe nipple that is drilled out to fit the blank cartridge can be PVC glued and threaded into the end cap of the spud gun. The firing will cause a high pressure in the cartridge blowing it open, the large spud gun chamber will reduce the pressure to safe levels blowing the spud out like a police baton round. Beware the recoil and try to remote test the first 10 shots if possible. the most likely failure is blowing off the barrel at the glue point which is weaker than the pipe walls. Use of a cleanout cap is still suggested in case a potato gets stuck in the gas expansion chamber. A spring loaded striker hammer attached creatively to the launcher or center punch tool will fire the blank cartridge.

Air Powered

For people who want a slightly more advanced version that is air-powered, you will need:

• 1x 1.5 inch ball valve

• 1x 1.5 inch sch40 3-5 ft. long

• 1x 2 inch sch40 2-4 ft. long

• 2x 2 inch sch40 4 inches

• 2x 2 inch sch40 90(degree) elbows

• bike tire

• pump or small compressor

• 1x 2 inch end cap

The idea is to use the two inch pipe as an air chamber. One elbow is attached to the end, a 4 inch piece of pipe is inserted, this goes to the next elbow making a 180 degree turn. The remaining 4 inch piece is inserted in the elbow. then the ball valve is fitted within it. A 1/4 inch hole is drilled in the large piece of 2 inch pipe. the valve removed from a bike tire is inserted through the hole from the inside and ducttaped in, be sure to allow the air to flow in. Now attach the end cap over the open end of the two inch pipe. The 1.5 inch pipe is your barrel and is attached to the ball valve.

Use proper solvent cement connection on the pipes.

operation:

The ball valve is closed. Next, the ammo is rammed down the barrel( use any appropriate tool as a ramrod). Next the pump is sued to fill the air chamber to a decent pressure(say 70-100 psi). The weapon is now loaded. This process takes a while but the results are much more impressive when fired. to fire: -point at target -quickly rotate ball valve

The air pressure is released from your chamber down your barrel and accelerates your projectile... fast. the caliber is smaller, but a level shot with a 2 foot barrel can go well over 300 feet (in a fraction of a second by the way). The longer barrels and larger chambers will yield even better results. I can say from experience that a 42" barrel and 42" chamber at 80 psi will fire a potato at 450-600 fps, depending on the barrel seal.

Dry Ice

Dry ice is a solid form of carbon dioxide, it should be pretty readily available at some supermarkets and camping supplies, it comes in either blocks or pellets, depending on what you want to use them for both can be useful, but pellets are good for stuffing into bottles or tubes. Be very careful handling dry ice as it is at -72 degrees centigrade, it will give frostbite after 3 or 4 seconds. When mixed with water, it will rapidly sublimate into gaseous carbon dioxide, if this is done inside a chamber it will build up a very high pressure.

In plastic bottles with the lids screwed on, chucked into a crowd of pigs it'll make a nice big bang, but without much chance of serious harm to them. Be extremely careful doing this as there will be enough pressure to explode in under 10 seconds, you dont wanna have it exploding in your hand. Never do this with glass bottles.

It can also be a reliable 'fuel' for spud guns, just be very careful the pressure doesn't get too high, never store dry ice in a sealed container until you are ready to use it, it shouldnt sublimate too quickly at ambient atmospheric pressure if kept in styrofoam, bubble wrap, or a blanket for insulation but don't take chances, let it release pressure.

In use dry ice propellant is mostly like a regular air powered spud gun with a few special rules. Build a pressure chamber and include a pressure gauge since the vapor pressure at room temperature is 830 psi at 20C(70F) higher as the temperature rises and it could blow most PVC pipe or glue joints apart as most pipe is only tested for up to around 450psi. Even more important than the gauge is either a pressure popoff valve or a cap you only screw down before firing so you can load and fire without building up too much pressure. If you don't follow safety rules and use a good gauge to keep the pressure down to safe level you could end up with a bomb instead of a spud gun.

Baby Spud/Ball Gun

For a smaller, less-than-lethal riot weapon use nail gun .22 blanks and smaller diameter aluminum pipe. Thread a steel or brass pipe plug into the back and drill to tightly fit the blank and tape in with a thin tape. a PVC sleeve with a striker located correctly will fire the weapon when slapped. A safety pull pin through the sleeve will make this safer to carry as will a seal of masking tape. A rubber super ball can be loaded instead of potato if long term stockpiling is required.

Anti-tire Burrs

These are easy to make, and quite an effective way of stopping cars. To make them, simply bend together two pieces of steel rod and arc weld in a way that no matter which way the device falls one point is sticking straight up. Make sure that these nails are both long(4 inches 10cm or longer) and thick(at least 1/4 inch or 5mm) as car tires have a really thick outer layer (these have the tread on them) as well as woven wire mesh that you need to puncture. Sprinkle these liberally across a road to prevent four-wheeled intruders. They're quite effective, but they take some time to make -- so gather together a few friends the night before a protest. Heavy metal like the thickness of a door hinge at a minimum ground to the shape of a bowtie and twisted in a vice ninety degrees so a point is always sticking up are called caltrops and will flatten normal squad car tires in under a second.

If slitting tires on a parked car go for the inside wall near the bead where rubber meets the steel wheel where it can't be repaired, this is hard to diagnose quickly especially if you also rip out or break off the valve stem, causing the vehicle to remain out of service longer.

Track Team

If you are faced with tracked apposition from bulldozers to battle tanks you can pop the track pins with a short piece of steel railroad track rail. Somehow get the rail under the track just as it is going from fully flexed around the caster wheels to flat as it rides horizontally on top or bottom. these track pins are tough so if the driver is moving slow and is smart enough to recognize a track jam he may just stop the vehicle and a quick reverse may dislodge the jam. Pieces of rail can be found laying around near railroad yards or sometimes around recently repaired tracks, they are very heavy but can be cut using a carbide cutoff wheel, it may take several disks to cut through. The only way to really decommission these vehicles is highly illegal and dangerous- a high explosive shaped charge or a thermite device. Instructions on how to make shaped charges can be found in the Army 31-210 book we provide in DIY Defense. One in the wrong spot might kill the crew rather than the vehicle though so watch out. The thermite will almost surely cause a fire see Other Weapons for instructions.

Abrasive Personality

Long term damage of equipment with bearings can be accomplished by using an coarse metal polishing abrasive powder mixed into a grease cartrige and injecting this into the grease fittings on the bearings. This is by no means an instant way to eliminate a vehicle or machine, but does expensive damage and may have an effect within minutes or it may take days or even weeks depending on the speed of the bearing. Look for these fittings on dozer track bearings, wheel bearings, suspension components, universal and CV joints, Drive line parts, etc. Some places don't even need the grease gun, you can just slit a rubber cover and slather your spiked grease onto the sensitive part. This method of equipment destruction was a favorite of resistance fighters in WW-II Europe. If busted the courts and current laws will view abrasive destroyed equiment in a much better light than say arson.

Pigs on Horses

Marbles in large numbers on hard pavement will trip a horse and panic them, rubber snakes are also known to scare some horses. If you can somehow detach the saddle the cop falls off. Horses are over a thousand pounds and deadly, while we want to protect an innocent animal they might become an innocent victim in our struggle for freedom, remember it was the corpgov police that brought them into harms way by using them as a tool of oppression.

Bike Locks for Pig Bikes

if you can stop a cycle cop long enough for this dangerous stunt try running a chain lock or U lock into a wheel. If the cop figures out what you are trying he may try to gun the engine potentially injuring you or running into the crowd.

Helicopters

We all hate the 1984-esque police choppers above us at demonstrations, raids, and other police actions. First off once a helicopter is in the air we don't touch it, that means no lasers aimed at pilots, no chains or cables into rotors, home brew stinger missiles, whatever, these are all out, a crashing helicopter usually kills the crew, that is murder, and the destruction and fire on the ground can easily kill many more innocents!

If you hate that helicopter so much get it when it is parked. Aircraft are made of lightweight material you would be amazed how quickly a sledgehammer, hatchet, bolt cutters, saw, and abrasives will destroy these delicate machines. Damaging or removing the front windshield will render the helicopter 100% unusable. Especially vulnerable are the jet turbine and transmission, open these up and smashy smashy!! Never try sneaky attacks on aircraft, if you are out to destroy make it blatant, hell leave an itemized destruction list, so that there is not any mid air failure and crash attributed to your actions.

Again once the helicopter is in the air leave it alone, trying to grab onto the skids could cause a crash and many deaths. It is useful to know that smoke will hide activists from the video camera although most smoke will not block the FLIR infrared cameras.

Rolling Road Block

An old junker car is perfect for making a roadblock and causing a traffic disruption to get your cause into the news via a press release claiming responsibility, but consider the public backlash. The roadblock is also useful for denying quick police response to your action or funneling their traffic to where you want it. A good choice for a vehicle is one that can be made to run and drive in urban traffic but doesn't cost too much. The road hogs of the 60's and 70's have the size and weight to make removal difficult once you implement you roadblock. Since you will not be getting your car back and don't want it traced pick a vehicle and remove all of the serial numbers especially any VIN tags and parking stickers which are archived, older cars have few tracked serial numbers.

When it comes time to lay down the roadblock you can very quickly stuff blocks or wood under the axles and rip off all of the valve stems from the tires to flatten the tires or even remove the wheels making it hard to tow unless they have a platform tow truck. For more staying power you could have holes cut into the floor and have friends in the seats mixing big buckets of cement to cement the car down to the pavement, hammering a few big spikes into the asphalt or cracks in the road will help secure the connection. Another tactic is to make the car appear to be evidence requiring a long lock-down of the "crime scene" a gallon of cow or pig blood on the seats a butcher knife and bloody footprints from the vehicle plus other creative and confusing "evidence" will surely lead to hours of investigation and a blocked road or highway.

Don't EVER leave a block in the middle of an open highway as a distracted driver may miss the non-moving block and plow into it at upwards of 80 miles per hour, only leave roadblocks in traffic jams where the traffic is already stopped but have a very good plan to escape the traffic lynch mob!

Fuel Adulteration

Linseed oil in a fuel tank is the fastest way to destroy an engine, according to tests at the US Army Frankfort Arsenal. Sugar took many hours and several sugared tanks to produce even minimal results (about as effective as dirt in gasoline). Many adulterants will be stopped by fuel or oil filters, try to find one that dissolves in the fuel. A good way to introduce an adulterant in modern locked fuel systems is to make a sharpened needle type tip for a garden sprayer filed with adulterant, one member of the team crawls under the car and identifies the filler line or fuel line and the other pumps the chemical into the tank. Many of these mixes will cause smoking which will at least take the unit out of service until the tank is drained but will not require an engine replacement. If the fuel line is reachable injecting a few hundred cc of paint will likely destroy the sensors and maybe the fuel injectors taking the unit out of service for a few days, maybe steal most of the fuel for your own use before injecting the adulturant! Styrofoam thickens gasoline considerably, and reduces the burn rate, this can easily stop an engine. If you can get at the oil filter remove it jab several holes through the paper filter ruining it then add an alkaline, abrasive, or metal powder, screw the filter back on.

Improvised Street Weapons

Folding chairs and confrence tables can be used as improvised shields against rubber bullets. Any kind of hefty rope or chain can be used as tanglefoot for massed riot troops or horses when well anchored off to utility poles or fire hydrants. And of course, a rock or piece of concrete when thrown will cause damage.

Clubs

Club type weapons besides being mostly non lethal when used against the leg muscles and buttocks usually have a longer range than concealable knives and are normally able to incapacitate in one or two strikes. Baseball bats are the baseline with short "tire checker" bats used by truckers and C or D cell Maglight flashlight/torches for tight areas, a police collapsible baton is an excellent choice for concealablity length when extended and effectiveness in bruising an attacker to the point that they retreat or go to the ground. A Kubaton type weapon is small to fit in the hand and intended to cause pain when used as a striking or pressure point weapon; thick wooden dowel, MiniMag flashlight/torches and tactical flashlights all have the hard edges needed for striking but the tactical light has the advantage of momentarily blinding your opponent with a burst of bright light. A roadwork stake ( the 2 foot long giant steel nail thing) can be destructive enough to take down a small tree when swung forcibly. They are easy to acquire, but can cause serious permanent bodily damage.

Addition of spikes and wire to a club may make it a little more scary but mostly just increase the danger to yourself in an over swing or miss, they are difficulty of carry, and greatly increase the chance of snagging and loss in the body of your target, it is useless in a non lethal confrontation and cannot be explained as anything other than a very cruel killing device if found by the police.

Flamethrower

The flamethrower is a very useful weapon when you want to trash some barren place, ignite some bombs from afar, or just send the pigs running. Go to your local dollar store, and buy a water gun (not those crappy pistols). Super soakers work fine. Use it with WATER first, and see if it drips water on you. If it does, the liquid you're going to be spraying will light your hands on fire. If not, so far, so good. Find a flammable liquid you want to use. NOTE: Do NOT use gasoline, it's expensive, and it will destroy the plastic. Find some glue and a birthday candle and glue the candle to the gun. Fill the water gun with your liquid of choice, and head out to do what you need to do. When you want to use your flamethrower, light the candle, and Feuer frei!

Whips

The bull whip requires a good open distance forward and backward to be effective and about 1.5 seconds lead time between strikes it is not very practical against humans. A better whipping weapon is the African shambok, it is a stiff but flexible nylon stick about 15mm diameter and nearly a meter long tapering toward the tip to 9mm with a rubber one hand grip. The shambok was very painful but non-lethal although it had a reputation for leaving huge welts and sometimes even breaking the skin. Aim for unpadded backs, legs ,and buttocks for best results.

Tematlatl

A tematlatl is a sling attached to a large rod (at least 3-5 feet long) and when you swing the weapon like a baseball bat, the item you intend to throw will fly FAR. The only downside is this weapon needs a lot of room to swing, and you need a constant supply of rocks, or whatever you want to throw. This weapon was used in Mesoamerica, and if you hit someone with a rock using this weapon, the result can be fatal. To see what this weapon will do, watch the ballcourt scene in the movie "Apocalypto" and you'll see with a bit of training, you can hit a pig with deadly accuracy.

Maquahuitl

The Maquahuitl is another weapon used in Mesoamerica, it is basically a paddle with obsidian blades (sharper than surgical steel) attached to it. However, this weapon is in serious need of an upgrade. Go to your local hardware store, buy a couple sheets of wood, some gorilla glue, and something to put in between the wood (a machete blade on each side would work nicely). Cut the wood to shape, put the cutting object in the wood, and glue. Wait 24-48 hours for the glue to dry, and you have a temporary weapon. One thing I did to make it last longer is cover the wood with some fiberglass sheets, and let dry. The weapon is somewhat useless, because it needs a lot of room to swing. Feel free to make some adjustments, maybe use some screws and use when it's needed. The original weapon was said to be able to decapitate a horse, so you can see why I put the weapon here.

Pepper Spray Blaster

Soak a few pounds of crushed or ground dried cayenne peppers in warm 90% grain alcohol for several hours, then evaporate off about half of the alcohol over an electric hot plate outside in an open area away from flame. Filter with a coffee filter and funnel or a coffee press then load the liquid into a cleaned out fire extinguisher with a schraeder (bike type) air fill valve, be sure to clean the O-ring at the neck, don't get your pepper liquid into the neck threads. Only discharge if you are wearing a gas mask, caution spray is flammable. A modified metal tube on the end of the hose is good for getting under doors or drilled holes in walls. Good for clearing out big corpgov conferences when fogged into the HVAC system of a conference hall.

Paint the ex-fire extinguisher black and paint "TEAR GAS" or something else so it is not ever used in a fire.

Considerations

Be sure to consider the danger to yourself and penalty for carrying and use of a weapon versus its effectiveness and usefulness in expected situations.

Links

See also Monkey Warfare

Original WEAPONS FOR STREET FIGHTING

Spray Cans

These are a very effective and educating method of property destruction. If a liberated zone has been established or you find yourself on a quiet street away from the thick of things, pretty up the neighborhood. Slogans and symbols can be sprayed on rough surfaces such as brick or concrete walls that are a real bitch to remove unless expensive sandblasting is used.

The Slingshot

This is probably the ideal street weapon for the swarms of little Davids that are out to down the Goliaths of Pigdom. It is cheap, legal to carry, silent, fast-loading and any right size rock will do for a missile. You can find them at hobby shops and large sporting goods stores, especially those that deal in hunting supplies. Wrist-Rocket makes a powerful and accurate slingshot for $2.50. The Whamo Sportsman is not as good but half the price. By selecting the right "Y" shaped branch, you can fashion a home-made one by using a strip of rubber cut from the inner tube of a tue as the sling. A few hours of shooting stones at cans in the back yard or up on the roof will make you marksman enough for those fat bank windows and even fatter pigs.

Slings

A sling is a home-made weapon consisting of two lengths of heavy-duty cord each attached securely at one end to a leather patch that serves as a pocket to cradle the rock. Place the rock in the pouch and grab the two pieces of cord firmly in your hand. Whirl the rock round and round until gravity holds it firmly in the pouch. When you feel you have things under control, let one end of the cord go and the rock will fly out at an incredible speed. You should avoid using the sling in a thick crowd (rooftop shooting is best). Practice is definitely needed to gain any degree of accuracy.

Boomerangs

The boomerang is a neat weapon for street fighting and is as easy to master as the Frisbee. There is a great psychological effect in using exotic weapons such as this. You can buy one at large hobby stores. On the East Coast you can get one from Sportscraft, Bergenfield, New Jersey, for $2.69, and on the West Coast from Whamo, 835 El Monte St., San Gabriel, Calif., for $1.10.

Flash Guns

Electric battery-operated flash guns are available that will blind a power-crazy pig, thus distracting him long enough to rescue a captured comrade. Check out camping and boating supply stores.

Tear Gas and Mace

Personalized tear gas and mace dispensers are available for self-defense against muggers. Well, isn't a pig just an extra vicious mugger? Write J.P. Darby, 8813 New Hyde Park, New York, N.Y. 11040 for a variety of types and prices.

Tear gas shells are available for 12 gauge shotguns and .38 Special handguns, but it is highly inadvisable to bring guns to street actions. A far better weapon is a specially built projection device that shoots tear gas shells. Hercules Gas-Munitions Corp., 5501 No. Broadway, Chicago, Ill., sells compact units complete with cartridges for $6.95 that will fire up to 20 feet. Penguin Associates, Inc., Pennsylvania Avenue, Malvern, Penn., also has a variety of tear-gas propellant devices including a combination tear gas-billyclub item. All these companies will supply a catalogue and price list on request. Some states have laws against civilian use of tear gas devices. New York is one of them, and unfortunately these companies will not ship to states that forbid usage. If you want any of these items, and your state has restrictions, have a sister or brother in a neighboring state order for you. Just latching onto these catalogues can be a trip and a half in terms of getting your imagination hopping. For example Raid, Black Flag and other insecticides shoot a 7 to 10 foot stream that burns the eyes. You can also dissolve Drano in water and squirt it from an ordinary plastic water pistol. That makes a highly effective defensive weapon. A phony letterhead of a Civil Defense unit will help in getting heavier anti-personal weapons of a defensive nature.

Anti-Tire Weapons

Don't believe all those bullshit tire ads that make tires seem like the Superman of the streets. Roofing nails spread out on the street are effective in stopping a patrol car. A nail sticking out from a strong piece of wood wedged under a rear tire will work as effectively as a bazooka. An ice pick will do the trick repeatedly but you've got to have a strong arm to strike home. Sugar in the gas tank of a pig vehicle will do nothing. Use water instead.

Authentic Pig Game

If you really get into it, you'll probably want to be as heavily prepared for trashing as are the pigs. Wouldn't you just know that the largest supplier of equipment to police in the world is in Chicago. Kale's, 550 W. Roosevelt Rd., Chicago, Ill. 60607, will send you, on request, the most complete catalogue you can get for trashing. Actual police uniforms, super-riot helmets, persuaders chemical mace, a knuckle sap, which is a glove with powdered lead, billy clubs, secret holsters, a three-in-one mob stick that spits Mace, emits an electric shock and allows you to club to death a charging rhinoceros. You can also get the latest in handcuffs and other security devices. This catalogue is a must for the love-child of the 70's. If we want to get high we're going to have to fight our way up.